Day 9 : Glencoe Ski Centre to Kinlochleven (9 miles)

We walked this section in reverse. So we parked at Glencoe ski centre then had arranged for a local taxi to take us to Kinlochleven. We then walked back to Glencoe ski centre. If anything I would recommend walking in that direction as you have a longer steadier climb and finish at the top of the Devil's Staircase by suddenly seeing the stunning views of Glencoe as a reward ! If walking from Glencoe to Kinlochleven you would have a steeper climb up the Devil's Staircase - a fairly hard zig-zagging climb up, so we were able to go down that - much preferable I think. Although the overall height climbed in either direction must be broadly similar as both ends are roughly at sea level.

We started at Kinlochleven where we stocked up at the Spar and visited the Ice Factory climbing centre where we got some takeaway coffee !

The first few photographs show Kinlochleven and then images of the pipes and waters heading to the old Aluminium smelter. I think they still use this for Hydro electricity. The water comes down from the Blackwater reservoir and you could hear the force of the water going through the pipes.


Cake and coffee at the Ice Factory in Kinlochleven ! There is a outdoor shop as well in there as well as climbing walls and indoor ice climbing !

The water pipes arriving down at Kinlochleven

The pipes going up the hill - West Highland Way is alongside

Some sort of dam or something - was more dramatic than it looks in the photo !

On the long slow climb out of Kinlochleven !

High up in the hills, the water arrives at the point where I guess it goes into the pipes. When you see this from the other side of the valley it is rather "James Bond"ish - with the electricity cables and the pipes crossing right across the valley. Kinlochleven is well below us at this point


During our lunch stop - a number of people stopped to chat about Tika - some Australians who told us about their Kelpie dogs back home, and a Californian lady who took photos of Tika ! This is Tika posing !

Everyone we pass is very friendly. Overall I would say 90% are from abroad - not many are from Britain. Its hard to identify exactly where folk seem to be from, but possibly about 50% Germany/Dutch/ Scandinavia ? 30% France/Italy/Spain ? and 10% America/Canada/Australia ? Which makes it all the more embarrassing that our hometown of Milngavie is the only stop en route which does not have public toilet facilites and its right at the start of the West Highland Way. We met one young Germany couple who were also walking the route in reverse like us - today doing Kinlochleven to Glencoe. A very nice couple. Hope they enjoy the rest of the walk. Their choice of direction en route was based on the cost of the train fares as they were students.

Nearly at the top of the Devil's Staircase - but approaching from Kinlochleven side :

At the top ! A fabulous site to those who have run out of water !


The highest point on the West Highland Way - at the top of the Devil's Staircase ! View of Buchaille Etive Mor !


And the "Cafe" at the top ! Honesty box / tents with very welcome drinks - Sprite and Fanta I think - if you had run out of water it would be a very welcome site ! We wondered who brought these up every day ? A keen hillwalker who doesnt mind carrying quite a weight ?!!


Walking along Glencoe - photo is taken with Kingshouse behind us and towards Glencoe village ahead.



Some of the wild camping behind the Kingshouse looked nice. There was also a couple of lovely wild camping spots on the route up Devil's staircase and then over near the top there - cant quite remember where ... as we kept thinking we were near the top then weren't !

The iconic Kingshouse Hotel is currently closed - hopefully the owner has plans to refurbish it. There is a 20 person bunkhouse next to it though and a very nice looking cafe, and also public toilet / shower block.
The cafe at the Kingshouse Hotel :

Black Rock Cottage on the way up to Glencoe Ski Centre. This cottage has featured on numerous Scottish calendars over the years !

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